Amigurumi, Amigurumi Free Patterns

Amigurumi Glow Stub Free Crochet Pattern

Materials:

When using the suggested materials, it will be about 27 cm tall.

• Yarn (DK), with me: DROPS Muskat (this is a mercerized DK cotton yarn)

In total I used a little more than 350 g yarn. Since I wanted to reduce my stock

of this yarn, the result was a combination of colors. Which colors you choose is

of course up to you :o)

• Some black and white yarn for the eyes

• Hook size in suitable size (with me: 2.5 mm)

• Stuffing

• LED-Lamp (about 9,5 cm in diameter) – with me: Aukey recharchable Mini RGB

Light (Link) ATTENTION! It has to be unconditionally LED, everything else gets hot

– fire hazard! If you use a lamp with (not rechargeable) batteries please remove the

batteries when the lamp is not used for some days – otherwise it can catch fire!

The listed wool and hook sizes are only suggestions. It is, of course, entirely your

personal choice, which yarn you use.

Please keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make

sure to adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension. When

crocheting Amigurumis you should use a much smaller needle size than indicated on

the label or you would use it for other crochet projects so that no holes are made

when the piece is stuffed.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring inc = increase

sc = single crochet dec = decrease

ch = chain BLO = back loop only

slst = slip stitch FLO = front loop only

st = stitch bs = Bobble stitch (see explanation above)

(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times

Special stitch: bobble stitch

Bobble stitches are usually made of 5 unfinished double crochet stitches. In some

cases I have to vary those stitches, for example when I need a bigger bobble for a

toe or something like that. I add in brackets how many and which of these unfinished

stitches the bobble consists of, e. g. bs x5 (tr 3) <- this means: make 5 bobble

stitches using 3 unfinished treble crochet stitches.

Stummelchen is a very special case. I used 2 stitches of the previous round for each

toe, so make 4 unfinished treble crochet stitches in the first stitch and directly 4

more unfinished treble crochet stitches in the next stitch, and NOW pull the yarn

through all 9 loops on hook, sc 1.

How to make those bigger bobble stitches for his toes:

Wrap the yarn twice around the hook (for tr), insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over

and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and

pull through 2 loops on hook – this unfinished treble crochet is ready for now and

there should remain 2 loops on your hook now. Start the next unfinished treble

crochet: wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert hook in the same stitch as

before, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn

over again and pull through 2 loops on hook, there should remain 3 loops on hook

now. Repeat this until you have made 5 of these unfinished treble crochet stitches

(there should be 6 loops on hook), wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert hook

in the next stitch now and

make 5 more unfinished treble

crochet stitches into this

stitch (you have 11 loops on

hook), finally yarn over and

pull the yarn through all 11

loops in one go, chain 1,

tighten. Usually the bobble is

now on the wrong side (at the

back). No problem, just push it

to the front. You can also

push the bobble to the front

while crocheting the following

single crochet.

Regular bobble stitches:

Wrap the yarn around the hook, insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull

through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook – this unfinished double crochet

is ready for now and there should remain 2 loops on your hook now. Start the next

unfinished double crochet: wrap the yarn around the hook, insert hook in the same

stitch as before, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on

hook, there should remain 3 loops on hook now. Repeat this until you have made the

required number of unfinished double crochet stitches (usually 5 – so you have 6

loops on hook), finally yarn over and pull the yarn through all loops in one go, tighten

and sc 1 in next stitch. Usually the bobble is on the wrong side, the back side now.

No problem, just push it to the front. You can also push the bobble to the front while

crocheting the single crochet.

For the color changes I didn’t use any special technique this time, I simply knotted

the different colors together and then hidden the knots on the inside.

But now it finally starts :o)

Body:

Main color

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

The length of the foundation chain depends on the height of the light. If a very flat

lamp is used, the foundation chain must be approx. 5 chains longer than the lamp is

high, since the fabric becomes even more narrow, when crocheting and a flat lamp

otherwise falls out too easily. With a rather spherical lamp like mine, it is enough if

the foundation chain is as long as the lamp is high (see photos), then the lamp sticks

out a bit later. My stitch numbers are here only for guideline, this must be adapted if

necessary.

1. ch 21, starting in 2nd chain from hook: (loose) slst 20, ch 1, turn

Now crochet as many rows with loose slip stitches in the back loops only until the

fabric stretches around the lamp, not too loose, not too tight. The slip stitches

produce an elastic fabric that can hold the lamp very comfortably later without the

lamp falling out, but can still be easily removed for charging.

the yarn tail from the beginning and the working loop should be on the same side, if

not, undo one row or crochet 1 row more (depending on whether it is rather tight or

very loosely around), it follows a last row, a final row follows, connecting the first

and the last row.

Now fold the piece so that the working loop is at the back and the first row (with the

starting thread) is at the front, insert hook through the first stitch of the front row

and pull the working loop through. Furthermore always work through the next front

stitch and the back loop of the stitch at the back and crochet 19 more loose slip

stitches, do not fasten off.

On the inside (which is later turned outwards) there is almost no difference to the

other rows ( Picture below middle).

Still not fasten off, crochet along one of the edges in spiral rounds, the pretty side

points to you when you rejoin. Crochet a a single crochet at the end of each rib in the

loops marked in the picture (top right). I had 48 ribs and 48 stitches in round one. If

that is not the case with you, no problem at all. In the following (second) round you

take off so many stitches evenly spread that you have a multiple of 6 at the end of

this round and in the following rounds always decrease 6 stitches per round until the

hole is closed and a kind of “jar” is formed. It looked like this to me:

1. sc 48 along the edge (48)

2. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

3. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

4. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

5. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

6. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

7. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

8. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, cut the yarn (just secure the thread and put it on the back – it’s

inside later).

Now turn the piece so that the nice sides are inside.

Now rejoin on the other edge, crochet single crochet along the edge at the end of

each rib, the “jar” points backwards. Again, you can easily adapt the number of

stitches, this time in the second row by increasing up to a multiple of 12:

1. sc 48 along the egde (48)

2. (sc 3, inc) x12 (60)

3. (sc 4, inc) x12 (72)

4. (sc 5, inc) x12 (84)

5. (sc 6, inc) x12 (96)

6. (sc 7, inc) x12 (108)

7.-24. (18 Rounds) sc in each st around (108)

25. (sc 16, dec) x6 (102)

26. (sc 15, dec) x6 (96)

27. (sc 14, dec) x6 (90)

28. (sc 13, dec) x6 (84)

29. (sc 12, dec) x6 (78)

30. (sc 11, dec) x6 (72)

31. (sc 10, dec) x6 (66)

Gently and carefully stuff to the edge (it should now

look like the photos on the right).

32. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)

33. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)

34. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

35. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

36. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

37. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

38. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Mostly stuff, when stuffing make sure that the shape of

the “jar” at the front is kept – after all, the lamp should

be inserted there later.

39. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

40. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing.

41. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

The most tricky one is already finished :o)

Kopf:

Stuff and shape the head so that no more dents are

visible.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

11. (sc 9, inc) x6 (66)

12. (sc 10, inc) x6 (72)

13. (sc 11, inc) x6 (78)

14. (sc 12, inc) x6 (84)

15. (sc 13, inc) x6 (90)

16. (sc 14, inc) x6 (96)

17. (sc 15, inc) x6 (102)

18. (sc 16, inc) x6 (108)

19. inc, sc 51, inc x3, sc 51, inc x2 (114)

20. sc in each st around (114)

21. sc 1, inc, sc 51, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 1, inc) x2 (120)

22. sc in each st around (120)

23. sc 2, inc, sc 51, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 2, inc) x2 (126)

24. sc in each st around (126)

25. sc 3, inc, sc 51, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 51, (sc 3, inc) x2 (132)

26.-34. (8 Rounds) sc in each st around (132)

27. (sc 20, dec) x6 (126)

28. (sc 19, dec) x6 (120)

29. (sc 18, dec) x6 (114)

30. (sc 17, dec) x6 (108)

31. (sc 16, dec) x6 (102)

32. (sc 15, dec) x6 (96)

33. (sc 14, dec) x6 (90)

34. (sc 13, dec) x6 (84)

35. (sc 12, dec) x6 (78)

36. (sc 11, dec) x6 (72)

37. (sc 10, dec) x6 (66)

38. (sc 9, dec) x6 (60)

39. (sc 8, dec) x6 (54)

40. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

41. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

42. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

43. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

44. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

45. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

46. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

47. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Ear (make):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7.-20. (14 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)

Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Now fold the top as shown in the photo above (middle) – looks like a small “W”, the

main color is on the outside and sew together with some stitches through all layers.

Tail:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6.-10. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

15. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

16. (sc 2, dec) x6 (30)

Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.

Foot/Leg (make 2):

You’ll need a special stitch for the toes, see explanation

above. See explanation at the beginning.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

1. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

2. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

3. sc in each st around (42)

4. 4x 2 special stitches made of 5 tr (see explanation at the beginning) and ch 1 at

the end of each toe to secure it (ch doesn’t count as stitch, this could also be

omitted, but it will be easier with it) and sc 3 <- you have 4 toes now, 22 fM

(42)

5. sc in each st around – crochet 5 sc over each toe, skip the chains (42)

6.-12. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (42)

13. sc 1, (sc 1, dec) x6, sc 23 (36)

14. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

15. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Stuff and shape the foot.

16.-30. (15 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

Stuff approx. ⅔ of the leg.

Fold the top edge together (if necessary: sc until you reach the fold) and seam using

a single crochet along the top edge, crocheting through both stitches.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Arm (make 2):

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6.-8. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

9. make a special stitch using dc 6 (for thumb use double crochet and work only in

1 stitch of the previous round), sc 29 (30)

10. sc in each st around (30)

11. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

12. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

Stuff and shape the hand, the arm isn’t stuffed.

13.-37. (25 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)

Fold the top edge together (if necessary: sc until you reach the fold) and seam using

a single crochet along the top edge, crocheting through both stitches.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Eye (make 2):

Black, worked in joined rounds.

1. sc 6 in MR, join round with a slst in 1st st, ch 1 (6)

2. inc x6, join round with a slst in 1st st (12)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Now sew the head on the body (best

done with the mattress stitch, so nothing

wobbles), sew legs and tail at the

bottom/back of the body (it must pinned

first to make sure that the Stummelchen

is well balanced and does not overturn).

Now sew the arms left and right directly

under the head, the eyes attach the eyes

in the lower third and if you like

embroider highlights with white thread.

That’s it – the Glow Stummelchen is ready :o)